After spending three hours at St. Petersburg's Russian Museum, nothing seemed more appealing than a hearty Russian meal. Luckily, Kalinka Malinka is conveniently located within walking distance. Featuring classic Russian cuisine, this restaurant, with its quintessentially Russian ambiance, was a great way for my party of Americans and Russians to continue our journey into the Slavic dreamland.

Waiters dressed in red satin shirts passed the menus, available in Russian and English. The Russians at our table immediately ordered half a liter of Russian Standard vodka (500 rubles) and two plates of salted cucumbers sprinkled with cranberries (40 rubles).

After the Americans looked through every page of the menu and the Russians toasted their first round, we ordered. Some of us ordered borsch or noodle soup (80 rubles) as starters, while others opted for the solyanka, a soup made with sturgeon (120 rubles).

We were very happy with the homemade taste of soups, complemented with sour cream and the choice of white or black rye bread. The "Nikitinsky" salad (240 rubles), made from sturgeon, apples, sweet peppers and mayonnaise, was also quite appetizing.

The restaurant serves its food in old-fashioned ceramic plates and bowls with Russian designs. Some pleasing details included bearskins decorating the walls and popular folk songs coming through the speakers. It was a shame that most of the people eating at Kalinka Malinka were foreign and couldn't sing along because the Russians at our table were having a blast. They were the real contributors to the authentic feel of the restaurant: toasting and singing along with the traditional tunes.

For the main course, we ordered the Knight chicken (150 rubles), fried and served with a salad made from corn, peas, cabbage and cranberries, with a side of potatoes; the Novgorodsky beef (180 rubles), prepared with potatoes, cheese and mayonnaise. Although some complained that it was a bit chewy, overall it was a good dish. The beef stroganoff (150 rubles) had just the right amount of onions to make it tasty, but a bit too much sauce. My pelmeni (100 rubles) were juicy and fresh.

The waiters were quick and attentive, satisfying our requests to turn up the music.

For dessert I ordered a small ceramic pot of ice cream covered with honey and almonds (200 rubles), a delicious but tiny portion. The berry ice cream (90 rubles), smothered in a fresh berry sauce, was so good we had to order more.

After a few more toasts and a small argument with the waiter over the fact that Kalinka Malinka doesn't serve decaffeinated coffee, we asked for the bill and we made our way to the windy streets of St. Petersburg. It was a relief to know that, in a city that boasts a European character, we could still find a little piece of good old Russia.

KALINKA MALINKA
5 Italianskaya Ul.
Metro: Kanal Griboyedova.
Tel: 314-2681.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.