Bashkirian surprises and adventures in Ufa

Issue Number: 
456
Author: 
By Lucas ROMRIELL
Published: 
2002-11-01


Traveling to the Southern Urals may not be everyone's idea of a perfect fall getaway, but with a climate slightly warmer than Moscow and shady tree-lined streets, Ufa, the capital of Bashkortostan, may make for a surprisingly pleasant trip. Bashkortostan is not the usual economically struggling Russian province and Ufa is no dilapidated regional city.

The region enjoys a vibrant and somewhat bustling economy, a proud local culture with Central Asian roots and an ethnically diverse and friendly population, making it a fine cultural experience for those who are tired of monasteries and cupolas. The city has celebrated its newfound affluence with new boutiques featuring labels like Pierre Cardin and Tommy Hilfiger adorning Prospekt Oktabrya, the town's main drag.

The population is even fashion-conscious and progressive enough to house a New Age shop to furnish the 1.1 million locals with energy crystals and hemp sweaters. Cultural buffs in search of traditional Russian architecture will be pleased to see that the old town is still largely intact. Strolling down quiet old streets lined with late-19th and early-20th century city houses is a welcome change for those sick of Moscow's hustle and bustle.

You can also check out the local mosques, in addition to Russian Orthodox churches for a bit of cultural diversity. Down by the newly opened shopping center, Gostiny Dvor, you can hang out in some of the pubs and beer gardens - weather permitting - where locals gather to meet and drink under smiling portraits of the region's president, Murtaza Rakhimov, embracing Vladimir Putin.

Nearby, you can stop in at the Indiana Jones Bar and Grill, a funky little joint decked out in a Temple of Doom motif. It's hard to escape Rakhimov's benevolent gaze when touring the town, and likewise it's difficult to miss the signs promoting peace and harmony between the central government and the peoples of Bashkortostan. The region is home to a strong Islamic minority and years ago, locals were grumbling for independence, though not as strongly as in nearby Tartarstan.

However, given the region's current economic prosperity, thanks to rich oil reserves, it's unlikely the locals will rise up any time soon. Of course, having a strong, authoritarian president like Rakhimov in power doesn't hurt either. Bashkortostan largely avoided the privatization of the '90s and left most of the region's major assets in state hands. And the local government has been generous in spending money on infrastructure and cleaning up the region's capital city.

Bashkortostan boasts its own regional airline, oil companies, telecom firm and a number of other largely state-run enterprises; however, they are scheduled for privatization. Ethnic Russians are the culturally dominant force in the region, but the traditional Bashkiri culture has not been forgotten. One of the first monuments to greet visitors is a large obelisk celebrating the union of Russia and Bashkortostan.

Street signs are written in Bashkiri, as well as Russian. But my taxi driver from the airport confessed that few locals understand Bashkiri. "We usually learn a little bit in school, but apart from some villages, nobody speaks it," he said. The city's most important companies and government offices are located not far from one another at Soviet Square, along with the most prestigious schools, popular with the local elite's children.

You can also take home a bit of the local culture at one of the city's souvenir shops, where they sell dolls dressed in traditional Bashkiri clothes. Honey is also considered to be a regional specialty and can be purchased at shops on the main drag. Adventurous types may want sample a glass of homemade kumis - fermented mare's milk - at one of the local restaurants.

As in most Russian towns, budget accommodation is difficult to come by. Decent, so-called "four-star hotels" are available, but most travelers will find them to be three-star quality. Single rooms can be found for around $50-$60 a night. However, foreigners are a rarity in this city and the locals are warm and friendly. An outgoing, well-mannered Westerner could probably easily find cheaper accommodation with the locals, if he or she played his or her cards right.

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